Modern Plaka History
Plaka’s history is so vast, that anybody needs to read so many books, even as a traveller. Walking around Anafiotika you can travel in time.
Plaka Music
The Beating Heart of Athens’ Cool Past
Today, Plaka is a tourist haven, but it wasn’t always so. This neighborhood used to be the epicenter of Athens’ counterculture scene, where bohemian souls gathered to revel in music, art, and revolution.
It all began with Anafiotika, a cluster of island-style homes nestled under the Acropolis. As Athens emerged from WWII’s shadow, with developers circling to rebuild the capital, Plaka transformed into a creative oasis.
The British musical invasion of the 60s swept through Athens, finding its rhythm in Plaka’s winding alleys. Hole-in-the-wall clubs became “incubators” for modern Greek music with an international flair. The legendary Vangelis started out here with his band, Forminx in 1964, while a young Eric Clapton allegedly snuck in under the alias “Angelo Mysteriogo” to jam with The Juniors, dodging his record label’s watchful eye.
Plaka “Boites”
Plaka’s boites (in French night clubs are called “boite de nuit”, literally meaning “night boxes”) were the pulsating heart of 60s Athenian nightlife. The French name was given by Giannis Spanos, after he returned from Paris. These once underground places – became a symbol of artistic expression, freedom and entertainment in the city.
The most renowned ones were:
- Tipoukitos, 1961, at Nikodimou st.
- Ledra, at Kekropos 12. Here, the inimitable Jimmy Panousis (1954-2018), played his first gigs.
- 11, at Kydathineon 11 st.
- Esperides, which opened in 1964, and closed in 2004, at Tholou st.
- Sofita, at Mnisikleous 29 st.
- Apanemia, at Tholou 4, which opened in 1963. It is said to have been a brothel, before during the Nazi occupation of Athens. The Beatles reportedly caused a stir at Apanemia during their Athens visit.
- Zoom, at Kydathineon 39 st,
- Tiffanys, at Adrianou 134 st,
- Trip, at Lysiou 8 st., later named Odysseia. Mick Jagger visited the place in 1976-77.
- Maimou, at Mnisikleous st.,
- Folk 17, at Kivotos st, later named Nefeles
And some more: Steki tou Gianni, Themelio, Diagonios Karyatis, Tetradio, Tavania, Katakomvi, Paraga, Avlaia, Skorpios, Hriso Klidi.
Dubbed the “New Wave” of Greek music (neo kyma in Greek, named after the French nouvelle vague), this avant-garde scene nurtured great songwriters and singers (Spanos, Savvopoulos, Arleta, Chatzis, Mavroudis and many others) amidst political upheaval, student protests and an insatiable lust for freedom.
For two glorious decades, Plaka throbbed with the energy of youth in revolt. But eventually, in the early 90s, Athens Mayor Antonis Tritsis pulled the plug, prohibiting night-clubs and transforming Plaka into the tranquil, tourist-friendly gem we know today.
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